I am using an original Meade DSI color camera, and the "Image processing" function in Meade's Autostar Suite software.   Can anyone suggest a good online tutorial for this software.   The software user's manual leaves something to be desired.....at least for me.

I am running the camera in "Normal mode",   For each capture, I get 4 'combined images':  L, R, G & B.   I have not been able to figure out how to incorporate the L (luminance) image.   I can "Color merge" the R,G & B images, but how do I add in the L?

I could sure use some advice from anyone who is proficient in using this software.

Also, I have yet to figure out how to combine of two or three different exposure times into one image.    Most of the time, my alt-az mount allows no more than 11-15sec exposures before star streaking begins.   I usually end up with 30-35 subs.   I am thinking that my images might improve if I could combine say 3 sec, 8 sec and 15 sec captures into one image.

Thank you for any help you can offer.

Hi Barry,

 Isn't your imaging scope a 4 Nextstar SE?   if it is, it should have the EQ wedge option.  You really need to get those exposure times up more than you are, the only way is to use the EQ wedge if your ALT AZ mount came with it.

If your Mount is an older version that does not have the EQ wedge option, one can be made out of Oak or aluminum and some basic hardware store parts. Or you can purchase one for that particular mount.

You really need to get 30 seconds as a minimum for DSO's with a small 4 inch aperture a 1 to 3 minute sub sets would really make a big difference.

There are really no online manuals that I can refer you to other than the one Meade already has posted.   I have heard of some Yahoo DSI groups that other folks have used in the past.  but I have never joined any of them.

The DSI has a nasty learning curve,  I would be more than willing to show you how I process my images on a step by step basis, but I think that this would be better if we did this via E-mail, since I need to see where you are having problems. The first thing to tackle is to get you on an Eq Wedge to bring those exposure times up.

Send me a private message if you are interested and we can exchange e-mail addresses and phone numbers.  I have free long distance phone service so I can always call you and we can work on some of your subs together, and hopefully we will get you turning out some Good shots that you will be more happy with.

Don't give up! all you need is a helping hand or some real time hands on training.

Dennis

Hello Dennis,

I guess I just need to drag out the "image processing" manual and try to decipher it, again.....for the 10th time.   It is written in Chinese.   I have read a lot of poorly written software manuals over the years, but this one takes the cake.   I have a solution to crime.   Instead of prison, make offenders read the Meade manual through and implement the so-called instructions.  Cruel and unusual punishment.  Crime would drop immediately.

Seriously, it's probably at least partly my fault.  I have a genetic allergy to reading instructions.

Yes, my scope (NexStar 4se) has a wedge, but I didn't have much better results with it roughly polar aligned.  There is no fine adjustment......so drift aligning is all but impossible.   I still see a CG5 in my future, but the funds just arent available at present (2 kids in college....tight budgets, etc).   Sometimes when I take the time to tweek the hand controller very carefully, I can actually get as many as 50 x 15 sec subs.   I got a pretty good image of M33 by taking 18 sequences....... finally on the 18th try, I got almost 8 minutes of data with round stars.   The final image came out pretty good, but the data was captured from a very transparent, dark sky location......not my driveway (I might as well be in a shopping center parking lot).   There is some luck involved too. 

 I am imaging with a 80mm Orion short tube refractor (to gain a wider field) on the NexStar 4se mount.

When I shoot with the DSI, I have it set on "Normal" mode......so the software combines the frames into 4 images: L, R G, & B.   I realize thats not the perfect way to do it.  

Let me carefully go through the manual again, and work through some processing exercises.  I will probably have some questions for you.

Barry