As a breed, Icelandic horses are virtually

unchanged since Viking times. Laura Baird

The northern lights have still eluded us, but the group has kept busy with other activities. Yesterday, part of our group set out to Thorsmork Valley, a nature preserve, but had to turn back due to heavy snow and white-out conditions. Others in the group, myself included, used the day to explore downtown Reykjavik, which is within walking distance of our hotel. We all met for dinner at the Pearl, a revolving restaurant atop the Perlan. We then headed to the countryside and found a clear patch of sky as the rain clouds that had hung over the city all day moved out, but we saw no aurorae.

Today, optional tours included horseback riding on Icelandic horses, a pure breed preserved since Viking times, and a flight to the Westman Islands. I chose the horses — and saw some incredible views as we made our way over lava fields atop the stocky, hairy horses. Tonight, the group will meet again for dinner and then head out to look for the dancing lights. Everyone's hopeful we'll see them because this is our last night in Iceland. We've had so many fantastic experiences here, though, that seeing the aurora would be the icing on the cake, so to speak — the perfect end to a great trip.